The Mix’06 CocktailIn an ice filled Old Fashioned glass, or Collins glass, combine:
- 1 oz gin
- 1/2 oz Benedictine
- 1/4 oz Campari
- 1 dash Angostura bitters
Top with ginger ale. Garnish with a cherry.
The Mix’06 Cocktail
March 21, 2006Viva Las Vegas?
March 19, 2006Eiffel Tower RestaurantParis Resort3655 Las Vegas Blvd.Las Vegas, NV 89109(702) 948-6937
Write-up in the Seattle Weekly
March 1, 2006Just how exactly do you make a good cocktail?
February 13, 2006The overall concept is fairly simple… cocktails can (but don’t have to be) treated as a "fine cuisine" just as a classically trained French chef might approach making a sauce.
At its core, this basically means three things:
1. Use quality ingredients.
Don’t use store bought "Sour Mix". Don’t use cheap ingredients just to save a buck. Don’t use "Mixes" of any sort. Use freshly squeezed lemon and lime juice. etc. If you are out at a restaurant having some cocktails, try to grasp the quality concept that they are using on the food they cook back in the kitchen. Might they be using canned spaghetti sauce? instant rice? Velveeta cheese? No? Then why should they be using sour mix, Rose’s lime juice, and commercial bloody mary mix?
2. A cocktail should be a "combination" of flavors.
A glass of cold vodka is not a cocktail. It’s just a glass of cold vodka. A cocktail (as opposed to just a mixed drink) should consist of several different ingredients which are intended to combine together in order to create what might be considered a "new" (or at least "different") taste then the products have on their own… which leads us to:
3. The flavors should "balance".
There should not be a single flavor that stands out predominately. The classic "Appletini" does not fit my expectations of a "culinary cocktail" since it traditionally made with Vodka and Apple Pucker. Vodka has no flavor, so all you are essentially getting is "watered down" Apple Pucker. Likewise the modern (gin) Martini also does not meet my expectations. A "spritz" (if even that much) of dry vermouth is not nearly enough to "balance out" the flavor of the gin. A real Martini (ie, the way they were made back before Prohibition, and even for many years after) had a significant amount of vermouth in it AND orange bitters. Such a drink represented a balancing act between the two main ingredients, to the point where you almost couldn’t tell where the gin stopped and the vermouth began. Also, drinks such as a Margarita, Sidecar, Daiquiri, Lemon Drop, etc. should also be a balance of sweet and sour. Far too often I find folks making "sour face" drinks where all you get is a face puckering hit of lemon (usually artificial).
And I should probably add a "zeroeth" item to this list:
0. Don’t drink just to get drunk
Hopefully this is self explanatory. But if getting drunk is all you are after, then just stick with drinking screwdrivers all night long. Go the quality cocktail route if you are really into drinking for the flavor experience.
This of course is not to say that all cocktails have to be "culinary" cocktails. There is plenty of room for all types, just as there is plenty of room for all types of food. We all know that the best quality coffee is that which we have purchased freshly roasted (if not roasted ourselves!) and we grind right when we need it. But that doesn’t invalidate the lesser brands of whole bean coffee, or even the canned coffees that still outsell the gourmet roasters. Some folks prefer canned coffee, and there is nothing wrong with that. Some people prefer Budweiser over Microbrews, and some prefer White Zinfandel over a Cabernet Sauvignon. So I’m not talking absolutes here, but just awareness.
-Robert
Trailer Happiness
October 18, 2005
Catching Up with London
October 13, 2005
Visiting Plymouth Gin
August 2, 2005Wither the Old Fashioned
May 4, 2005Is the Old Fashioned an Endangered Species?
Twice in a row now, at two different bars, I’ve been served an Old Fashioned in a "Pint" glass. Ok, so the second time it wasn’t in an actual pint glass, but pretty close.
St. Clouds Food & Spirits
1131 34th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 726-1522
Ten Mercer
10 Mercer St
Seattle, WA 98109
(206) 691-3723
The Old Fashioned is a drink I absolutely love, when properly made. It has become one of the touchstones that I use to evaluate a bartender when I first encounter them. Unfortunately I rarely get a "good", or even "decent", Old Fashioned except at home.
I can accept that part of the problem is that the Old Fashioned isn’t ordered very often, and so most bartenders today don’t have much experience making it, and thus often simply read the recipe from whatever bartenders manual they might have on hand, and quickly slap it together. So I’m actually fairly forgiving when I’m served a sub-par drink. A "good" Old Fashioned tells me that this bartender perhaps has some good training in the classics, a "bad" Old Fashioned simply tells me that this bartender hasn’t been able to devote the necessary time to it. All of which made my last two Old Fashioneds that much sadder.
I visited "St. Clouds" specifically because I had run into the bar manager at another event. We got to talking about cocktails and spirits, and in the little time we had to chat, he voiced his dedication to the classics and bemoaned the lack of real culinary training by most bartenders. So imagine my surprise when not only did he serve me my Old Fashioned in a Pint glass, but that he used sour mix to make it! I had several drinks through the night from him, and every single one of them was heavily weighted on the sour side.
I dropped into "Ten Mercer" because I hadn’t been there for a long time, and I’m trying to update my "little black book" of Seattle bars in an attempt to rank/rate them in a somewhat standardized fashion. Ten Mercer had also recently been quoted in the "Seattle Weekly" as having some level of dedication to the overall history and culinary value of the cocktail. Some of the historical details were incorrect, but not frighteningly so.
While at "St. Clouds" the bartender recognized me immediately, at "Ten Mercer" he didn’t. So when I ordered my Old Fashioned he had no clue that he might want to take a couple extra pains with it. But as I mentioned, it was served in a tall glass, basically a tall water glass. And there was enough water in it for this to perhaps make a little sense.
Later on at "Ten Mercer" I ordered a drink that needed orange bitters, which he didn’t have. I naturally pulled out my own travel-vial for him to use. He commented later that he loved seeing somebody who took enough interest in classic cocktails to carry their own bitters with them. This of course led to my sharing with him who I was and my involvment with both DrinkBoy.com as well as The Museum of the American Cocktail. When he explained to me that he was always struggling to find good bartenders that knew and appreciated the proper way to mak the classics, I should have clued him in as to how bad his Old Fashioned was, but I usually try not to get into too critical of a conversation with a bartender on my first visit. But perhaps I should have.
So why is it now that not only have I had back-to-back "Pint Glass" Old Fashioned, but both by bartenders who at least gave lip service to their interest, if not dedication, to the classic cocktails?
Mixologist: Journal of the American Coc-ktail
April 23, 2005Mixologist: Journal of the American Cocktail
I belong to a small group of people who have, in very short order, pulled together a cocktail museum down in New Orleans. It has all be quite exciting, and there are several different projects that are related to this musuem that are currently at various phases of completion. One of them is an annual "Journal" that we will publish that will contain a collection of essays and papers that provide detailed information that we think bartenders across the nation would be interested it, or at least "should’ be interested in. Our first edition has just rolled off the presses, and we’re pretty excited about how it all looks.
Here is a list of articles from this first edition:
A Brief History of Punch
David Wondrich
The Rise and Fall of the Martini
Robert Hess
History and Character of the Gimlet
Paul Clarke
The Genealogy and Mythology of the Singapore Sling
Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh
The Bellini
Lowell Edmunds
If You Like Piña Coladas
Jared Brown
Antoine Amedee Peychaud
Phil Greene
Down to the Sea in Ships
Anistatia Miller
The Definitive Guide to Simple Syrup
Darcy O’Neil
Twenty-First Century Cocktails
Audrey Saunders
The Long and Winding Road
Gary Regan
To order your own copy, you can find it up on Amazon.com, or you can order it directly from the special publishing arm of the Museum here: http://www.Mixellany.com
It’s hard to believe that it was just about 8 months ago that I was discussing with Anistatia Miller the "idea" of doing something like this. And here we are with an actual book, fully published, and taking orders from all over the world.
We are already in the planning stages for the next edition, and so far it looks like we’ll have to double the size just to get all of the great article ideas in that are already coming in. If -you- think you’d like to send in a submission for our next issue, you can get the details here: http://www.mixellany.com/guidelines.html
IACP : The Coc-ktail: An American Original
April 18, 2005The Cocktail: An American Original
Last week, the IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) held their annual conference in Dallas Texas. I’ve known about the IACP for quite a while, but never joined, or participated in any of their events. This year however was different. Janet Zimmerman, the forum leader of the "Fine Spirits and Cocktails" forum on eGullet (http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showforum=88), had organized a cocktail session at the conference, and invited myself and David Wondrich to participate.
WS-11
The Cocktail: An American Original
TastingFor more than 200 years, cocktails and bars have played a crucial role in American gastronomy and social life. This session will outline the history of the cocktail from the "Golden Years" through the ironically creative Prohibition era to the present, when, it seems, many of the top bars and best drinks are now found in London. The panel will examine the cocktail as cuisine, focusing on the importance of high quality ingredients; explore the role of the cocktail in American culinary life; and discuss the various components of a successful cocktail lounge, including the menu, ambiance and bartenders. The session will end with a tasting of classic and new cocktail creations.
Janet A. Zimmerman, moderator, writer
Robert Hess, bar consultant
David Wondrich, drink historian
I of course always enjoy talking to people about cocktails, and to talk with folks well versed in culinary topics just makes it that much more fun.
The session went wonderfully. David started out by talking about the history of the cocktail, starting at 1806, even pausing briefly to go further back in time to describe some of the proto-cocktails that were around in th 1600’s and 1700’s. During his session he served up a "Whiskey Cocktail", made from whiskey, sugar, water, and some home-made "Stoughton" bitters. This is a form of bitters that was available in the 1800’s, but is long gone. Various "possible" recipes are floating about, one of which David chose to mix up and use for this session. It worked quite well, producing an excellent cocktail that was amazingly similar to an Old Fashioned (gee… wonder why? :-). David left off around 1860 or so, and passed the baton on to me.
During the switch-over, some folks got a chance to ask a few questions… which was probably a mistake, since from then on it seemed like the floodgates were open. It would have been fine if they asked questions that were relevant to the topic currently being discussed, but most of the questions were the random questions that the audience brought in with them, and so I had to work hard to keep the discussion on-topic so I could get the points across I wanted to focus on.
During my portion I served up a "dry Martini", made the classic way, 3 parts Plymouth gin, 1 part dry vermouth, and a dash of orange bitters. While the bar-staff was making up the Martini’s for the audience, I demo’d the process on-stage. I chose to "shake" my Martini instead of stirring it, because this way I could clearly illustrate to the audience how a shaken Martini will "cloud up" in the glass, while the drinks being served to the audience were crystal clear.
I had hoped to use some of Gary Regan’s recently released "Regans Orange Bitters #6", but unfortuantely my shipment didn’t arrive in time, so I used Fee Bothers instead. After the session, many people came up to tell me that this was the best Martini they had ever had… and many of them said that they normally didn’t like gin.
I explained to the audience about the culinary awakening of the cocktail which happened in the later half of the 1800’s, and was really picking up steam as we crossed into the 1900’s. I covered the Temperance movement, and how this brought about Prohibition, and some of the good and bad ramifications cocktail wise that we were to be saddled with during these 13 "dry" years.
I then explained how coming out of prohibition we behaved as if we were just turning 21, and could finally "legally" drink (after already having been drinking illegally for years), and how this shattered the soul of the Martini in ways that we are still dealing with.
I then passed things over to Janet, who mixed up a Sidecar for the audience, and briefly described the history of the drink, the process by which it was made, and the importance of using quality ingredients.
Throughout all of this, the audience was trying to pepper us with questions, and now that we had basically finished our presentation we could let the questions fly. So for almost half an hour the audience was able to ask all of the random cocktail questions that had probably been bothering them for some time.
- What is the shelf-life of liquor?
- Where do you find sour mix?
- Should martini fixings be stored in the freezer?
- Why are they called marashino cherries?
- Are glass shakers better than metal?
- Why does absinthe taste so bad?
- What bartender schools do we recommend?
And many others that I now forget.
Overall it was a great session, and based on the resposes that we recived from folks we would run into the rest of the day, it appears that the audience really enjoyed it.
Next year, the IACP conference will be in Seattle, so assuming I get a chance to do this session again, it will be a lot easier (and cheaper!) for me to attend. I can’t wait.